Method of making shoes



May, 1939. l 1. E QUlNN E1- AL 2,160,624

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Nov. 4, 1935 2 Sheets-Sheet l May 30, 1939. J.,E. QUINN ET AL METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Nov. 4, 1955 2 sheets-sheetV 2 Patented May 30, '1939 UNITED srATEs PATEN T OF F ICE vMETHOD 0F MAKING SHOES Delaware Application November 4, 1935, Serial No. 48,088

5 Claims.

" tated'.

In the construction of shoes it has been found to be an advantage to provide a quarter 'lining that is unitary throughout the back area of the inside of the shoe, thus avoiding an internal back seam and a side seam in the lining- Heretofore in practice, in order to avoid the back seam in the lining and to make the lining conform to the concave inner surface of the heel counter within this area, the quarter lining has been made in two .parts with the seam at one side of the back of the shoe. In order to do this, `it has been necessary to specially cut the matching edges of the two parts of the quarter lining to give a fullness or bulge in the back area of the quarter lining to conform to the surface of the counter, or make the quarter lining in one piece and in the lasting or pulling-over operation stretch the quarter lining to force it to conform to the conv-ex inner surface of the counter. The former operation is expensive and requires an extra seam in the quarter lining, and the latter operation results in an unequal deforming and stretching of the quarter lining and also makes it extremely difficult to avoid wrinkles and blisters at the back seam of the quarters.

The present invention obviates these difficulties and facilitates the assembly and pulling-over operation and results in a smooth finish of the shoe at the back area and a smooth heel seam.

The procedure resulting in these advantages Will be apparent from the following description, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. l is an edge View of a quarter lining blank.

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the same.

Fig, 3 illustrates the vmechanism for crimping and setting the quarter lining.

Fig. 4 is a View on the line 4--4 of Fig. 3, further illustrating this mechanism.

Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 3 showing the manner in which the quarter lining is crimped and set.

Fig. 6 is a view similar to Fig. 4 with the mechanism shown in the position indicated in Fig. 5.

Figl '7 is an edge view of the quarter lining (Cl. lit- 146) blank illustrating the blank after it has been preformed or set.

Fig. 8l is a plan view of the blank. l

Fig. 9 is a View illustrating the quarter blank in side elevation with the preformed bulge or crimp indicated to the right of the dottedr line a-a` thereof.

Fig. 10 is a view of the shoe quarter with the parts assembled.

Fig. 11 is a fragmentary view of the exterior of the shoe quarter showing the back seam of the quarter.

In practicing the invention the quarter lining is blanked out to provide the blank I, the contour of the blank being of such form that it will provide a continuous piece of material for the quarter lining. It will be understood that the material employed is the usual lining leather having a smooth inner surface and a roughened outer surface, and of sufficient flexibility to pro- Vide a smooth finish for the inner surface of the quarter of the shoe. After the quarter lining blank has been blanked out it is preformed or set to provide a fullness or bulge at the center of the heel portion, the preformed blank being particularly illustrated in Figs. 7, 8 and 9. By reference to Fig, 9, it will be noted that the dotted line cz-a represents the line that would indicate the rear edge of the folded quarter lining blank,

the bulge to the right of this line representing the crimp or fullness imparted to the blank by the preforming operation.

This preforming operation is suitably accomplished in a machine similar to a crimping machine, with modifications therein for the purpose of imparting to the quarter lining blank the outwardly convexed bulge or fullness, as illustrated in the drawings and described below. For the present purpose it is only necessary to briefly indicate the construction of the machine utilized for the purpose of preforming the quarter lining blank.

This machine consists of heated jaws 2 spaced apart to provide an opening therebetween. Above the stationary jaws 2 is a reciprocating blade 3 having a convex lower edge. In preforming the quarter lining blank the blank is stretched across the jaws and the blade 3 is moved downwardly to the position illustrated particularly in Figs. 5 and 6, stretching the quarter lining blank along the line of the center of the heel portion by forcing of this area of the blank between the jaws of the machine the heat of the jaws tending to give the blank a permanent set.

After the quarter lining blank has thus been Inasmuch as the preforming of the quarter lining blank causes the lining to closely conform to the inner surface of the counter and to the back part of the last, it is not necessary to unduly stretch the quarter lining, and the completed shoe upper, counter and lining may be readily assembled on the last in the usual way. The pulling-over and finishing ope-rations are thereafter accomplished in the usual manner, resulting in a shoe having a continuous quarter lining and in which the heel back of the shoe is given a smooth finish and the lower edge of the quarter of the upper and of the lining may be turned in to form a smooth contour at the heel seat.

What we claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

l. The process of manufacturing shoes which consists in blanking out a continuous quarter lining, preforming said quarter lining blank with an outwardly convexed crimp at the rear thereof adjacent the center line displaced from the normal face of the material, said crimp conforming to the shoe last over which the shoe is to be made, assembling the upper, counter and quarter lining for application to a last, and completing the shoe by a lasting and finishing operation.

2. A preformed quarter lining, said lining comprising a single piece of material, and said lining having a convex crimp along the center line of the heel portion, said crimp comprising material displaced from the normal face of the quarter lining.

3. A preformed quarter lining, said lining comprising a single piece of material, said lining having an outwardly convex crimp along the center line of the heel portion, said crimp comprising material displaced from the normal face of the quarter lining, the crimp being of greatest depth at a point between the top and bottom of the lining.

4. That step in the manufacture of shoes having a continuous quarter lining, which consists in preforming the quarter lining with a convexed crimp along the center line of the heel portion by stretching material out of the normal face of the quarter lining.

5. A preformed quarter lining having an elongated convex bulge along the center line of the heel portion, said bulge comprising material displaced from the normal face of the quarter lining.

JAMES E. QUINN. HUGH F. ELLIO'I'I. 

